The first Southern Foodways Symposium will be held in Oxford, Mississippi, May 1-3, 1998. This event provided an opportunity for curious cooks, gourmands, and food writers alike to better appreciate the culture and foodways of the American South. On the University of Mississippi campus, culinary historians, folklorists, chefs and passionate advocates of regional foods gathered for three days of lectures, tastings, and performances.

Augmenting the impressive list of speakers was a series of informal lunches held in the tree-shrouded grove at the center of the Ole Miss campus. Featuring Southern specialties like golden-fried catfish and smoke-infused pork barbecue, these dinners enabled attendees to interact with the speakers.

Evening events included a private dinner party at Oxford’s own award-winning City Grocery and a reading by Norma Jean Darden from her Broadway play, Spoonbread and Strawberry Wine. Regional product tastings and book signings were also featured. The weekend festivities closed with brunch served in the grove as a gospel choir performed.

Hosts for the event were the Center for the Study of Southern Culture and the Institute for Continuing Studies. Primary sponsors were Bryan Foods and Viking Range, with Ellen Rolfes Books and Mississippi Madness providing supporting sponsorship. The American Institute of Wine and Food was an advisory sponsor.

Speakers and Chefs

Lawrence Craig is a native of Devalls Bluff, Arkansas, where he opened Craig’s Barbecue in 1947. In 1997, he was honored by the Smithsonian Institution for his culinary contributions.

Norma Jean Darden is a writier, performer, and caterer. Her work Spoonbread andStrawberry Wine, has been perfored on Broadway as well as published in book form.

John Egerton is author of numerous award-winning books including Speak Now Against the Day. His Southern Food: At Home, on the Road, in History is a contemporary classic.

Barbara Ensrud, a regular contributor to the Wall Street journal and other publications, is the author of Wine with Food, Best Wine Buys for $12 and Under, and American Vineyards.

William Ferris, founding director of the Center for the Study of Southern Culture, is a noted anthropologist and folklorist. he is presently the Chairman for the National Endowment for the Humanities.

Betty Fussell is author of, among others, the award-winning Story of Corn: The Myths and History, the Culture and Agriculture, the Art and Science of America’s Quintessential Crop. She has lectured widely on food history.

Jessica Harris, a professor of English and French at Queens College, has written extensively about the foods and foodways of the African Diaspora. Her most recent book is The Welcome Table: African-American Heritage Cooking.

Leigh McWhite is a graduate student in history at the University of Mississippi. Der dissertationis titled “Echoes of the Lost Cause: Civil War Reverberations in Modern Mississippi.”

Richard Schweid is the author of two acclaimed books on the relationship between place and food: Catfish and the Delta: Confederate Fish Farming in the Mississippi Delta and Hot Peppers; Cajuns and Capsicum in New Iberia, Louisiana.

Ed Scott, from Drew Mississippi, was the first African American catfish farmer in theMississippi Delta. Though now retired, Mr. Scott still has his hand in the catfish business- as a cook of the most succulent fried fish you have ever had the pleasure to eat.

Frank Stitt is chef/owner of Highlands Bar & Grill and Boltega in Birmingham, Alabama. His marriage of Southern ingredients and Provencalcooking has won nationwide acclaim.

John Martin Taylor is a food historian, writer, and owner of Hoppin’ John’s culinary bookstore. The author of four booksincluding the seminal Low Country Cooking, he lives in Charleston, South Carolina.

William Woys Weaver researches and writes about food and material kitchen culture. Among his many works are America Eats: Forms of Edible Folk Art and Heirloom Vegetable Gardening.

Bill Wiggins is professor of Afro-American Studies and Folklore at Indiana University. His book O Freedom!: Afro-American Emancipation Celebrations examines the cultural functions ofbarbecue and other traditional dishes in these celebrations.